After a relatively short 90 minute drive on I-10 West, we would pass from the sleepy bedroom community of Long Beach and land our guests in a very different world. Our usual destination was the French Quarter, and we had predictable stops. The windswept river bank of the Mississippi, the sights and scents of the Old French Market, the spectacle of inebriated tourists on Bourbon Street, and the usually placid Jackson Square were our go-to spots.
Back then, our area of activity was typically within a five block radius of Jackson Square. On those occasions when I'm in the mood for public interaction, this is still a great option. Hanging with street musicians, and joining in on impromptu Second Line parades are quintessential New Orleans experiences. And no newbie visit is complete until you've been hustled, "Hey, Mister, betcha $20 I can tell you exactly where you got your shoes!" If you know, you know.
Our more recent itineraries are very different these days. My late buddy, Carl, was once a chef in the Big Easy, and he gave me some great advice on the city's food scene, "For the best beignets, muffulettas, and etouffee, whatever - stay away from the places popular with tourists." I'm giving you the side eye, Pat O'Brien's.
Our first stop is usually Vaucresson’s Creole Cafe & Deli. The sausage varieties these guys turn out are first rate. We've started bringing a cooler with us just so we could take some of this Creole goodness back to Maryland. The staff are always friendly, and one of them gave me great intel on another stop.
He informed me City Park was just a short drive away and it's a welcome respite from the concrete and cobblestones of the city proper. Sentinels of moss draped oaks stand silent watch over the water-featured landscape frequented by pelicans and ibises.
Also, in City Park is the New Orleans Museum of Art. The last time we toured the Museum, we were regaled by a travelling exhibit of Monet's works. On this most recent visit, there was an extensive display of fantastic costumes worn by Mardi Gras Indians over the years.
At this point, if you're really jonesing for beignets and chicory, there's a Cafe Du Monde in the park that's nowhere near as crowded as their riverside location. But, if you're able to stave off this craving a bit longer, leave City Park and head for The Vintage on Magazine Street. Their take on "standard" and "fancy" beignets was a big hit with the standing room only crowd. They weren't Andrea's cup of tea, but I really enjoyed them.
To walk off those calories, stroll over to the Magazine Antique Mall. I love antique stores because they're like mini, unofficial museums of their surrounding area. As a bonus, unlike exhibits in a museum, if you find something that really sparks joy, you can take it home with you. Unfortunately, I struck out and couldn't find a copy of Papa Legba's grimoire or even a vintage piece of cast iron. But Andrea managed to score several pieces for her Wedgewood collection.
While I'll gladly toss back hurricanes and hand grenades down in the quarter with any New Orleans newbie, there's real magic beyond the neon lights of Bourbon Street. Tourist spots may be comfortable and predictable, but it's in the less-traveled corners – a local deli, a serene park, or a hidden antique mall – where we truly connect with a place and its people. This grand old city has many layers and is exquisitely complex. Her historic old neighborhoods, hole-in-the-wall blues clubs, and culinary delights known only to the locals are waiting for folks willing to embrace spontaneity and go off the beaten path.
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