I love New Orleans, and it was my fortune to grow up in Long Beach, Mississippi, which was a scant 90 minute drive away on Interstate 10. Whenever out of town guests came to visit, it was a given we'd load them into a car and make our way over to the Big Easy.
If it was a weekend, we'd wind up at the Old French Market, row after row of open air stalls built right on the bank of the Mississippi. Here, vendors hawked everything from locally sourced groceries to New Orleans themed kitsch. I still have a 70's era snow globe containing the Superdome and a riverboat. With purchases in hand, that renowned institution, Cafe du Monde, was the next stop. While locals debated the spot for the best beignets in town, the Cafe was definitely the most popular. Besides, I was just happy to get some beignets. I ranked breakfasty type breads with beignets and croissants at the top, followed by English muffins and southern biscuits. Donuts pulled up the rear, and way below that, bagels. A word of advice before you get into the inevitable long line at the Cafe, it's a cash only operation.
The Riverwalk didn't exist back in the day, but today, this mini mall is a welcome, air conditioned respite during New Orleans's steamy hot summers. Rested and cooled, we'd follow the river back down and strike inland. Crossing through Jackson Square and it's iconic photo op, we'd wend our way over to notorious Bourbon Street. You could spend the rest of the day exploring its cross streets and alleys. Wrought iron balconies draped with hanging baskets wrap the upper floors of the buildings. Crossing streets you have to look out for not only cars, but also horse drawn carriages and the occasional parade. On our last trip down, one procession let me join them for half a block or so. Street musicians are everywhere. Follow the protocol, if their music gives you pause and causes you to stop, you owe them a buck or two. Here, walking the streets, is where you can get your full dose of the local flavor, literally with its cafes, restaurants, and bars and figuratively with vendors, artists, and musicians - and the occasional hustle.
On one visit, a kid comes up to me. "Hey, mister!" I turn, and he looks me up and down. "Hey, mister, I'll bet you $5 I can tell you exactly where you got your shoes."
"Wait. Just from looking at me, you can tell me exactly where I got my shoes?"
"Yessir! We got a deal?" Pfft. Kid, don't hustle a hustler.
"Where I 'got' my shoes is on my feet."
"Aw, man. Mister, don't be spreadin' that around." I smiled, laid a finger along the side of my nose, and he scurried off to find a real tourist rube.
Fats Domino is a born and raised native son of the Crescent City. Born Antoine Domino on February 28, 1928, "Fats" began his music career in 1947. He toured and recorded for 60 years and is second only to Elvis in record sales for artists of his era. He retired from touring in the 80's and decided to stay put in his hometown. Fats cited the rigors of being on the road and perhaps more importantly, he couldn't get food that he liked anywhere else. I feel ya, Fats.
"Walking to New Orleans," released in 1960, hit number 6 on the Hot 100 and number 2 on the R&B charts. The song offers some good advice. Park the car and walk the city. Just wear some good walking shoes and be kind to street hustlers trying to make a buck.
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